Modulation instability of stokes wave
freak wave
A. I. Dyachenko+, V. E. Zakharov+*
+L.D.Landau Institute for Theoretical Physics RAS, 117940 Moscow, Russia
*Department of Mathematics, University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ, 857201, USA
PACS: 02.60.Cb, 47.15.Hg, 92.10.-c
Abstract
Formation of wave of large amplitude (freak wave, killer wave)
at the surface of ocean is studied numerically. We have observed that freak
wave has the same ratio of the wave height to the wave length as for the
limiting Stokes wave. When freak wave reaches this limiting state, it breaks.
Physical mechanism of freak wave formation is discussed.